morfodinamica praial

Revisão
Rev. bras, oceanogr.. 5l(único):63-78. 2003

Morfodinâmica praial: uma breve revisão
(Beach morphodynamics: a brief review)
Lauro Júlio Calliari1, Dieter Muehc2, Fernanda Gemael Hoefel3 & Elírio Toldo Jr.4
1

Fundação Universidade Federal do Rio Grande - FURG
Departamento de Geociências - Laboratório de Oceanografia Geológica (LOG/FURG)
(Caixa Postal 474 - Av. Itália km 8, 96201-900 Campus Carreiros, Rio Grande, RS, Brasil)
2

Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro. Instituto de Geociências
Departamento de Geografia - Laboratório de Geomorfologia Fluvial, Costeira e Submarina
(Cidade Universitária, 21941-900, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brasil)
3

Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
(MS#09 (WHOI) MA 02543 USA)

Instituto de Geociências da Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul - FRGS
Centro de Estudos de Geologia Costeira e Oceânica - CECO/UFRGS
(Caixa Postal 15001, Av. Bento Gonçalves, 9500, 91501-970, Porto Alegre, RS, Brasil)

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Abstract: Since the early 1930's, beach profiles have been broadly classified in one of the two types: storm profiles or swell profiles associated, respectively, with steep or low waves.
Changes in beach profiles involves so many variables that becomes very difficult to obtain a model which can account for a sucessfull explanation or prediction of these changes. Only in the early 1970's. the sediment characteristics, the process of wave transformation in shallow waters and the coupling between the three-dimensional morphology and the hydrodynamics were sistematically analyzed in order to get a better understanding of the processes responsible for beach changes and its evolutionary sequences. In this paper a brief review about the sucessfull beach morphodynamic models developed by the Australian school of coastal geomorphology is presented as well as some results of this approach applied to some of the southern and southeastern Brazilian beaches.

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Resumo: Desde o início dos anos 30 perfis