Use this pattern to make a set of four soft blocks that can be stacked, nested or used for storage. The exterior of each block is made from five small quilted squares, making this a great project for practicing patchwork and using up fabric and batting scraps. I made the exterior of my blocks using a combination of square-in-square patchwork blocks and panels of asingle featured fabric, but any combination of patchwork and solid panels could be used. Just make sure that your finished squares match the sizes indicated on the chart below. In order to make these blocks sturdy enough to hold their shape and stack easily, several layers of interfacing are used. You will need a heavyweight sew-in like Timtex® or Peltex®, a lightweight fusible like Pellon® and apadded material like low-loft cotton batting or fusible fleece. You’ll also need rotary cutting supplies, a fabric marker and hand sewing needle. For 3” block 5 squares Lining Fabric 5 squares Heavyweight Interfacing 15 squares Lightweight Fusible
for 4” block 5” x 5” 3-7/8” x 3-7/8” 5” x 5” 5” x 5” 4” x 4”
for 5” block 6” x 6” 4-7/8” x 4-7/8” 6” x 6” 6” x 6” 5” x 5”
for 6”block 7 x 7” 5-7/8” x 5-7/8” 7” x 7” 7” x 7” 6” x 6”
4” x 4” 2-7/8” x 2-7/8” 4” x 4” 4” x 4” 3” x 3”
5 squares Patchwork/Exterior 5 squares Batting or Fusible
Use the same directions for each block size.
© 2009 by Elizabeth Hartman for Sew, Mama, Sew! www.ohfransson.com / www.sewmamasew.com Not intended for commercial use. Page 1
Let’s get started!
Start by making the blocklining. You’ll need your lining squares, heavyweight interfacing squares and 10 squares of lightweight fusible interfacing.
Iron one piece of lightweight fusible interacing to the wrong side of one lining fabric square. Use your ruler and fabric marker to draw lines paralell to and ½” from each side.
The lines you’ve just drawn should have created a frame that will fit one of yourheavyweight interfacing squares. Place the interfacing square in the center, as shown above.
Now, place a second piece of lightweight fusible interfacing over the top of the square and fuse it in place, “trapping” the heavyweight interfacing in the middle. Run the tip of your iron around the edge to make sure that everything is secure.
© 2009 by Elizabeth Hartman for Sew, Mama, Sew! www.ohfransson.com/ www.sewmamasew.com Not intended for commercial use.
Repeat the last couple of steps with the other four lining pieces. Set your machine to sew a slightly shorter than normal stitch. (This will help to secure the seams, which will be twisted and crushed during sewing.)
Place the right sides of two lining squares together. Stitch together, following the line you marked earlier,but not starting before or continuing beyond the point near the corners where it intersects with the lines from the adjacent sides. Sew forward and backward at the beginning and end of your seam to secure.
Using the same method, sew another square to the opposite side of the first. Press seam allowances toward the outside, as shown above.
Match a fourth square to another side of the first, asshown above.
Sew in place, again making sure not to sew beyond the intersection of your marked lines. Press seam allowances toward the outside.
© 2009 by Elizabeth Hartman for Sew, Mama, Sew! www.ohfransson.com / www.sewmamasew.com Not intended for commercial use.
Repeat with the last square until your block looks something like the above photo.
The right side of your blockshould now look something like this.
Using the marked line as a guide, press what will become the top edges of your block toward the inside. (You will need to unfold these creases before sewing sides together.)
Now that all of the sides are sewn to the bottom, we need to sew the side seams. The lining bottom will need to be folded in half, as shown above.
Starting at the very top (after...