Motor stirling

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Can Stirling engine plans

These instructions will help you build your own drinks can Stirling engine.

Use a can opener or knife to remove the top from a can. Cut around the can, just below where the inward bevel starts.

You'll need a container for the water cooling jacket. Tuna tins are ideal for this, but you can use any heat proof container that will holdwater. Cut a hole the tin big enough for the drinks can to fit through.

Turn the drinks can upside down and slide the tuna tin over it. Use a general purpose silicone sealant to make the joint water tight.


This can should be the same brand as the tin you used to make the displacer cylinder. Use a can opener to remove the ring pull part from the top of the can

Drill an 8mm hole inthe base of the can. This will be for the nylon tube.

Tape the top can template around the can. Pay attention to the position of the arrow. It must line up with the 8mm hole.


Pierce through the two hole for the crankshaft using push pins. These holes won't be big enough for the crankshaft so you'll need to make them bigger using a small piece of the steel rod.

Use a 4mm drill bit todrill the two holes for the angle bracket.

Pierce a hole in the centre of the viewing hole so can start cutting the hole out using tin snips.


Cut a small piece of the nylon tubing, around 25mm (1”) long. Push it through the 8mm hole in the can.

Turn the can over and seal around the nylon tube using epoxy resin. You'll need to hold the can at an angle to stop the epoxy running intothe centre of the can.

Once the epoxy is set, you can bolt on the angle bracket using the M4x12 screws.


Dismantle three of the terminal block and drill a 2mm hole in two of them. The third one is for attaching the flywheel

Form the displacer crank arm, the dimensions are along side the templates. You'll need to add the heat-shrink and electrical connector as you bend it.

Thediaphragm crank arm needs to be rotated through 90 degrees around the axis of rotation (see photo!) .


The diaphragm crank arm completed.

Take another drinks can, it should be an aluminium can. Cut a strip of the can around 50mm high. This will from the outer ring of the displacer. You're going to staple it back together so that it will fit inside of the displacer cylinder.

Staple thestrip of the drinks can back together, so that it's about 4 mm smaller than the displacer cylinder can. It should drop to the bottom of the can without sticking anywhere.

Cut and fold over two tabs on opposite sides of the displacer outer ring. Pierce two small holes into the tabs using a push pin.

Form a piece of the thin steel wire into the approximate shape shown in the photo.

Fit it intothe holes in the tabs. Bend the ends over so that it can't slide out of the holes.


Tie the end of the nylon wire through the small hoop in the displacer.

Cut a piece of the wire wool approximately 75 mm (3”) square. Fit this into the displacer outer ring.

Cut some tabs into the bottom of the displacer ring to stop the wire wool from sliding out.


Drill a 4 mm hole in thecentre of the a milk bottle lid and a 6mm hole about 12 mm ( 1/2”)from the edge.

I made a wooden jig to hold the CD and electrical connector in place. There's no reason that this couldn't be made from cardboard or something similar, if it's to be used only once. There is grease proof paper under the CD so that it doesn't stick to the jig.

With the CD and connector in place, fill the voidaround the centre of the disk with hot melt glue.


The diaphragm is sandwiched between two M4 x 15 washers. Pierce a small hole in the approximate centre of the balloon, thread the bolt and washer through. Make sure it's tightened up well to create an airtight seal.

You'll need a small connector rod with an eye that can be bolted onto the diaphragm bolt.

Bolt the connecting rod onto...
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